Alps log: day 10
Roll out of bed at 7. Late start. I’m sort of freestyling it today, this far north is the edge of my map, and my book is rather terse about this alt path (“take a signed route on footpaths and tracks to Mission, then steeply uphill to Hotel Weisshorn.”) At least got some maps
from the tourism office.
Stage 9: Grimetz – Hotel Weisshorn – Cabane de Bella Tola
ht gain: 800m?
Riverside walk to Mission, yet another charming village set in the Swiss valleyland. Slow boring haul uphill, covered by forest.
I reckon there are three hallmarks to a mature, adult intellect: craving context, understanding agency, and discerning falsehoods. I’m sure there are others, but I like these three.
INTERLUDE. Your friendly Alpine movie critic here, with a few reviews for you: (500) Days of Summer, seen shortly before leaving, and X-Men Origins: Wolverine, seen on the flight over. Spoilers ahead.
500 Days of Summer. Enough cutesy tricks to convince me it was a firsttime director. Zooey as Summer Flynn (too-clever character names– firsttime writer?), Joe as Sanguine Looser, apparently. Enjoyable, but a bit gutless at the end. Here i was, ready to take the punch in the stomach, ready to interpret this as a wounded pulldown of true love, when they let the movie run an extra 10 minutes, and, aloha, Joe proceeds to meet a smoldering, olive skinned girl with almond-shaped fuckme eyes, who happens to share the same love and career, architecture. Wink wink. Two and a half stars, (minus half star for not enough alpine mountain scenes.)
Wolverine: bloated emotionless letdown. Largely a movie made by committee with the exception of two fine casting decisions (liev Shreiber made a sufficiently burly Sabretooth, and Ryan Reynolds works as gabby Deadpool.). No, seriously, what backroom deal did it take to get will.i.am cast in any acting role, let alone as Maverick. Did he promise not to produce a song for the soundtrack? And was anything in the last 30 minutes shot in the real world? Dear director hacks, your CG is one-tenth as good as you think it is. Nonetheless, lots of great mountain scenes to enjoy here, particularly in Banff, Canada. Two stars.
Hotel weisshorn is old (1882). i can’t believe they used to shlep supplies up here everyday back then. Now it plays host to tourists and weddings. Lunch: fromage anniversais, salami, fresh apricots (in season), banana, bread. Nap.
Another hour and half to the cabane du bella tola. Except that i misread my tourist map, and nearly confuse it for the Refuge on top of the summit Bella Tola. Burn another hour getting straight. Arrive. I’m the only overnight guest. Cabane has fine facilities. Best view yet from a cabane. The hut guardian looks like Bill Nye and speaks with a deep French voice. He wears a chefs outfit the entire time I’m there.
Dinner: vegetable soup, hare with pasta and radish, raspberry mousse. I am delighted. Sunset’s something else and I take a few inspired photos. I go to bed deeply satisfied.